Photography with Continuous Fluorescent Lights

[wahgongzai]

A cool article on Continuous Lights photography
(Although tungsten is used but in practical is quite similar in nature)

Portrait Shooting with Continuous Lights (Tungsten)

 

[wahgongzai]

Hi all, just a small reminder for posting in this thread, since the thread have jump to page two

This thread is strictly to share with one another on topics relating to CFL on:
All sort of Portraits,Poses, still life, products and etc photos (experimental/artistic and etc) taken using CFL or CFL with other equipments like flash/reflector and etc
Positive suggestions/tips in relation to postures/model posing
Set up of CFL to get certain type of lighting effects (eg. Butterfly Lighting)

Please don't post things like:
Sourcing for CFL (Please please don't do it here, you go google yourself or post your own WTB in Buy/Sell)
Nasty comments on the model's looks (him/her)
Comparing with others equipments (I truly believe that different type of photography equipment has it own unique strength and weakness) If you really want to compare, please post your own thread.
Portraits and Poses photos/works without any use of CFL

For other things relating to the following I have open up a thread at General, Reviews, Tech Talk. So do discuss over there instead
Technical knowledge in using CFL
Tips and tricks
How different brand of camera behave when using CFL
Auto White balance issues/theories/troubleshoot
Lights/CRI/Color temperature/full spectrum theory
Getting good images and how you achieve it with CFL
Thoughts and tips in combining other Equipments like flash/reflector and others
How different brand of fluorescents behave (heat/CRI/and etc)

General, Reviews, Tech Talk on CFL
http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381117

I will doing some fun shoots using CFL these few month with my friends. Will share and update you guys.

 

[wahgongzai]

Have post something on Custom White Balance (CWB) relating to CFL, do check it out:


ClubSnap General, Reviews, Tech Talk
CWB (custom white balance) with a expo/white balance filter cap on CFLs

 

[wahgongzai]

Another Cool video using a high end and more advanced control type of CFL + reflector on portrait, do check it out

High End Professional CFL (One Light Source) + Reflector on portrait

 

[wahgongzai]

Cool videos by a pro using one CFL plus reflectors, the photographer also briefly explain how he set custom exposure and white balance.

CFL + Reflectors part 01
CFL + Reflectors part 02

 

[wahgongzai]

Same photographer from the above thread, but this time he is using two CFLs. Do check it out :bsmilie:

CFL main + CFL fill part 01
CFL main + CFL fill part 02

 

[wahgongzai]

Hi all, decided to update this thread and share with you guys on Flash and Ambient light exposure. Below is the set up that I did a few hours back. I am using a Sony A100 shooting @ full manual mode, Minolta 35-105 F3.5-4.5 AF. Do take note that the sync speed/x sync for the the A100 is 1/160.

This time round, more different types of lighting tools were used rather than just CFLs.
One Sunpak 120J + PT-04 trigger,
One 60cm Silver Reflector and
One 1210BW 75cmx75cm CFL.

Instead of a pitch dark environment, I decided to shoot with my ceiling light on.

Shooting portraits with Flash and Continuous Lighting is a bit tricky and hard for me as a newbie, as the two exposures is control by different settings from the camera. The FLASH EXPOSURE is control by the aperture whereas the AMBIENT/CONTINUOUS LIGHTS is control by the shutter speed.

 

[wahgongzai]

Below is an example to illustrate Aperture controls FLASH EXPOSURE

The Sunpak 120J was set @ 1/2 power, notice that 1/125 and 1/160 @ F4 the exposure is closed to each other. But as the aperture increases, the flash exposure reduces.

Now where is the example for Shutter speed controls AMBIENT/CONTINUOUS LIGHTS?
I forgot to shoot... my bad :sweat:. I will update this part again when I got the time.

 

[alexj]

In studio situations, or in situations where time permits, I would think to reduce the flash power directly rather than by changing my lens f-stop.

CFLs emit a fix amount of light - meaning they usually can't be dimmed, need to pull the light backwards or forwards to reduce intensity, or use diffusion or ND gels to reduce light.

Usually, I would set a particular range of f-stops/shutter speed to work with for a given shoot situation; eg. need a shallow depth of field and moderately fast shutter. Position the CFLs to give the required quantity/intensity and quality. Same thing for flash, reduce the output.

If I need to balance to ambient, I would measure the existing ambient light or take a test shot. Figure out the appropriate camera settings (iso, f-stop, shutter + WB if necessary) and adjust the additional lights as needed, using lighting gels when appropriate.

Using the lens f-stop doesn't really control lighting, it just changes the overall image exposure.

Hope this sheds some light on one workflow method.

 

[wahgongzai]

Image A

Image B

Image C

Image A - C is shoot @ ISO100, 1/160, F4.5. I did get a high key background but the model was over exposed by the reflected lights from the white wall. And the flash light also over power/kill the continuous light source. The Flash/Strobe light is always more powerful than Continuous Light (Artificial).

I can solve this by moving the model away from 120J or simply reduces the power output from the flash. However I can't move the model further away from the flash due to limited space so the only option is to reduce the flash power. Maybe I can try this out the next time.

 

[wahgongzai]

In studio situations, or in situations where time permits, I would think to reduce the flash power directly rather than by changing my lens f-stop.

CFLs emit a fix amount of light - meaning they usually can't be dimmed, need to pull the light backwards or forwards to reduce intensity, or use diffusion or ND gels to reduce light.

Usually, I would set a particular range of f-stops/shutter speed to work with for a given shoot situation; eg. need a shallow depth of field and moderately fast shutter. Position the CFLs to give the required quantity/intensity and quality. Same thing for flash, reduce the output.

If I need to balance to ambient, I would measure the existing ambient light or take a test shot. Figure out the appropriate camera settings (iso, f-stop, shutter + WB if necessary) and adjust the additional lights as needed, using lighting gels when appropriate.

Using the lens f-stop doesn't really control lighting, it just changes the overall image exposure.

Hope this sheds some light on one workflow method.

Thanks Alexj for sharing

 

[wahgongzai]

Now where is the example for Shutter speed controls AMBIENT/CONTINUOUS LIGHTS?
I forgot to shoot... . I will update this part again when I got the time.

Finally have some time to update :bsmilie:

Below is a example for "Shutter speed controls AMBIENT/CONTINUOUS LIGHTS"

The sample images is shot with another 120J with a grid spot @ 1/8 power. However I do need to add, beside shutter speed, other factors do play a part too. Example like ISO settings, power output.


Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Strobist - SUNPAK 120J PROFESSIONAL

 

[wahgongzai]

Another video on shooting portrait using a standard CFL and a high end CFL, enjoy

Shooting Portrait using CFL (standard and high end)

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Strobist - SUNPAK 120J PROFESSIONAL

 

[wahgongzai]

hi all, just came across this "home made" video in using Hot lights to do portrait

Hot lights on Portrait

Reminds me of a commercial shoot :think: about 2 yrs back, when I am using a smaller 40x40cm CFL. I remember I bought 4 sets to the location, 2 sets used a 36W fluorescent and the other two were using a 90-100W incandescent and boy it was hot :sweat:, for closed up face shoot we used the fluorescent, but when come to machinery and 2-3 person group shot all 4 lights were used. I remember I have to pay very closed attention to the "operational time" for the incandescent mount CFL caused of the heat factor.

Anyway do check up my updated thread on Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), it has two very very cool videos on choosing lights. It covered from the very old tungsten/incandescent to the very new "LED" continuous lights.

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Strobist - SUNPAK 120J PROFESSIONAL

 

[wahgongzai]

Using CFL to do maternity portrait shoot, this time the photographer did a low key shoot. Cool :thumbsup:

Maternity Shoot with CFL 1
Maternity Shoot with CFL 2

One thing I am very interested to find out is whether the black background is near to the model? Normally if the CFL is placed too near the background, even though is black the CFL will still tend to lid it up??? Normally for me, I will ask the model to stand further from the black background so the light will not hit the background, and if I can I will placed a flag on the side of the CFL to block off any stray light hitting the black wall/background. hmmm :think:

enjoy

 

[xMetalx]

Very Nice Setup Thanks for sharing.

 

[wahgongzai]

xMetalx Very Nice Setup Thanks for sharing.

thanks xMetalx , just to share another video on continuous light photography. This time is LED light although it is not fluorescent. It is still a good reference video to check out.

LED light for Still Photo Shoot

enjoy guys

 

[wahgongzai]

Hi all, found a few videos on continuous light photography. Although the photographer is using a high end tungsten lights to shoot. The practical/theory is almost the same with using fluorescent. I enjoy watching it although I hope the photographer can speak a bit slower when he is explaining... The photographer is from Taiwan so the video is in mandarin and no English subtitles. Do check it out

Continuous Lights (Tungsten) on Food photography
Continuous Lights (Tungsten) on Portrait Half Body
Continuous Lights (Tungsten) on Portrait Full Body

For the portrait videos, the photographer used a Color Meter to check the color temperature and explained why he used it. I always wanted to get a second hand color meter but the steep price prevented me from getting one. So what I currently do is to use a white/grey card first WB adjustment after the shoot.

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Strobist - SUNPAK 120J PROFESSIONAL

 

[wahgongzai]

hi all, I will be sharing with you all on "experimenting with freeze motion photography solely with CFLs" Below is the final image after been enhanced in Photoshop. The image itself still need a lot of fine tuning as some details have been burned/overexposed :sweat:. I will be posting/updating more details later as I go along

Image above is shoot @ ISO400 1/1600s F6.3, no flash/strobe was used

 

[wahgongzai]

Few days back, my friend wee came to my place to use the CFLs for a commercial product shoot. For me when doing product shoot, 3 CFLs+DSLR on tripod will do a good job... During set up, I suddenly remember this thingy I always wanted to experiment it with CFLs. Can CFLs be used to freeze motion? I suggested to wee regarding this experiment, and he is also very curious to find out. So I proceed to add in 2 more CFLs. Below is the set up I did:

1. One glass vase (bought from IKEA a yr ago for this purpose :bsmilie
2. One 75x75cm CFL placed below a transparent tempered glass top table
3. Two 70cm Octagon CFL, one left and one right
4. One 50cm Octagon attached to a boom from the top
5. One 70x50cm CFL placed behind the glass vase.

Did a few test shots on my side when wee was shooting his products.

ISO 400 1/250s F7.1

ISO 400 1/160s F8

Continuous Fluorescent Light (Technical), Strobist - SUNPAK 120J PROFESSIONAL